Our Upper Mountain Fork River Trip

Upper Mountain Fork River
Originally uploaded by FreeWine

Dianne booked us a stay in southeastern Oklahoma's mountains for the Father's Day weekend; it was SO secluded and relaxing! I recommend it highly for couples and small families looking for a great deal on an Oklahoma cabin in the country. The owners have only one cabin they treated us like royalty the entire time we were there.

River Ranch Cabin is nestled in the Oklahoma 'mountains'. Southeastern Oklahoma is more mountainous and forested than any other part of the state. The roads that lead to Smithville, Oklahoma reminded me on the switchback-laden three lane highways of Colorado. You have to watch out for logging trucks, but it is well worth it to see the amazing vistas of the Ouachita National Forest and the Kiamichi mountains.

The single one-bedroom cabin at River Ranch Cabin sits on over a hundred acres of solitude fronted by a half mile section of the Upper Mountain Fork River. This river resort offers the most exclusive luxuries on market: solitude and comfort amongst breathtaking natural beauty. I'm sure it was the spacious indoor Jacuzzi that attracted Dianne's attention to this cabin. That gal is drawn to hot tubs, like a moth to the flame! However, we both knew she would end up spending very little time in the Jacuzzi as soon as we saw the 'swimming hole' at River Ranch Cabin.

The Upper Mt. Fork River is quite different from the Lower Mt. Fork River we are accustomed to kayaking in. The water in the Upper Mt. Fork River is much warmer than in the lower river. In my opinion, the Lower Mountain Fork River is almost too cold for swimming. The rocky, pool and drop descents of the two rivers are similar, but we didn't see the Cypress trees and Spanish Moss that we normally see on the lower river.

Swimming at the private gravel bar 'swimming hole' at River Ranch Cabin means you see no one else. We swam about five hours a day all weekend and we never saw a hiker, boater, fisherman...anyone! The crystal clear waters are teaming with fish, deer are plentiful and the grounds are well mowed. The spacious 'swimming hole' is actually quite long, but since it is a narrow bit of river you can always find some shady water to take a break from the sun. A gas grill stands nearby so you don't even have to return to the cabin for lunch. The gravel bar also makes an excellent place to launch kayaks from.

Once it gets dark, Dianne and I were willing to return to what was easily the nicest cabin we have ever stayed in. The first thing I noticed when we entered the cabin was a lovely homemade cake resting under glass. The lady made cake for us! Dianne was impressed by how new everything was in the cabin and rushed in straight to see the tub. It is a beauty and elegantly placed in the large bathroom. My attention was captured by the truly world-class cooling system. Heat pump, digital thermostat and more ceiling fans than I have ever seen a single home, much less a one bedroom cabin! I counted two in the living room, two in the kitchen, one in the bedroom and two on the back porch for goodness sakes!

Everything about the cabin was perfect from the location right down to the smallest details. Although American Whitewater will tell you that the river is only runnable after local rains, we enjoyed paddling for quite a ways around the cabin even late in June. However, I must confess that the heat of the summer had us much more focused on swimming than we were on kayaking during our visit to River Ranch Cabin in Smithville, OK.

Looking for a kayaking shirt to beat the summer heat? This weekend I tried Under Armour Heatgear and it really works! I wore this black shirt in the blazing heat and sun and found it to be wodefully cool. try one yourself sometime: Under Armour Men Heatgear UA Tech Sleeveless T-Shirt.

Quiet Kayaking on Dripping Springs Lake

Saturday afternoon's sunset was a bit of a disappointment, but the clouds made the lake cool off earlier. The wind laid and the lake water became increasingly glassy as Scott and I paddled our kayaks up Salt Creek on Dripping Springs Lake. I took Dianne's new 13 foot kayak out, but still had to work pretty hard to keep up with Scott's 17 foot Pygmy Coho plywood kayak.

The day had been blisteringly hot when we launched our boats from the fishing dock at Clovis Point. Once we reached the point where the lake began to slim-down into Salt Creek (and I began to wonder if one bottle of water was going to be sufficient) blessed shade happened. When Scott offered to bring his fancy new kit kayak to Okmulgee, I got pretty excited. Since I started reading about building kayaks lately, I was familiar with stitch and glue boat building. However, I had never seen one up close. It was just the boat the slide across the lake and sneak up on some wildlife.

Although the Clovis Point campground had been crowded with RV's, we saw only two fishing boats on our trip up to Salt Creek. The seclusion was conducive to wildlife watching, as was Scott's super-sleek Coho kayak, it cuts through flat water like a scalpel, leaving barely a ripple in its wake. We slipped up on this lovely whitetail doe foraging on the lake shore. Before returning, to the fishing dock we saw several more deer and a few beavers.

Because I had allowed the hour to get a bit late, paddling back to Clovis Point provided a bit of a workout (much eased by in the cool of the evening). On the way back Scott and I met up with Ron, another local kayaker. Ron paddles an Old Town Loon. It is a Sit-Inside fishing kayak, much like Dianne's new Vapor 12. Ron is a swell guy (with a used whitewater kayak for sale, ping me if you want) and he lives not too far from my house. Mark has paddled this part of Oklahoma for decades; I hope to learn from him some more trips to share on this kayaking blog.

I hear some of the Oklahoma Flatwater Paddlers visited Lawton for some scenic paddling. Anybody else make the most out of this somewhat wet weekend in Oklahoma? Drop me a comment or fine me on Twitter, Flickr, Facebook, etc.

Happy Paddling!

Chronic Summer Wanderlust

Although our recent trip to the Illinois River was great, it really got me itching to paddle some new waters. Reading other bloggers talking about their awesome summer road trips is just making it worse. I was reading the Gliding Calm blog this morning. The author is traveling across the US, while working toward sticking to her rather strict diet (she is a chia seed dieter like me). As she visits state after state, I am struggling to find time to hit a few paddling spots right in my neighborhood! Thankfully, this month we will be visiting the Upper Mt. Fork River for the first time.

Speaking of the Mountain Fork River, I hear through Twitter that Broken Bow's Lower Mountain Fork River is back open for canoe and kayak float trips and trout fishing. This is great news, the LMF River is our favorite Oklahoma paddling location. According to American Whitewater's site: The Tulsa Wave is running and Arkansas' Saline River at Dierks Lake is kicking up some great whitewater. Happy paddling!

Illinois River Watershed Appreciation Day June 6, 2009

Bald Eagle on the Illinois River
Originally uploaded by FreeWine

The Illinois River Watershed Partnership will hold Illinois River Watershed Appreciation Day from 2 to 7 p.m. Saturday, June 6, 2009 at Lake Fayetteville.

The day's itinerary includes children's games in the pavilion from 2 to 4:30 p.m., a geocaching treasure hunt, Stream Team watermonitoring demonstrations, canoe racing, fishing and volleyball contests, barbecue and a concert. Everything's free and open to all.

The Illinois River originates near Hogeye, southwest of Fayetteville, and flows west, crossing the Ozarks into Oklahoma five miles south of Siloam Springs. Eventually it flows into the Arkansas River near Gore, Okla. More information is at http://www.irwp.org/ or 479-238-4671.

Illinois River Float Trip May 2009

Dianne and I joined up with Yakker for a Friday trip down the scenic Illinois River (self-shuttled because it is good to have friends). At just a bit over 4 feet, the river level was perfect for our entire trip - no dragging and no paddling in treetops. Just the way I like it. We launched from the public access at No Head Hollow off Highway 10 and paddled down to the public take-out at the Highway 62 Bridge.

Just about 15 minutes into our trip, Dianne spots a Bald Eagle perched on a tree. It even let us get close enough to take some decent pictures (on Flickr) before making an abrupt departure! I wish we could have gotten on the water by 7am instead of 9am. Osprey frequent this river as well. Due to hitting the water around 9am on a weekday, we saw only a few canoes and two kayaks paddling the river with us. The weather, like the water level, was perfect at 70+ degrees and very little wind.

We saw lots of large carp, several large blue herons and dozens of turtles. I saw one canoe turnover, not due to an obstacle, but rather a poor launch. Although there are no real rapids on the Illinois River float trip we took, there are some downed trees to avoid and barely submerged root balls from past flooding. Although you watch out for these, you are bound to get the occasional unexpected bump. In this situation, you are a greater risk to your boat than the obstacle. React calmly and the collision is usually no big deal. However, if you get spooked you could end up swimming (more likely wading) this Class I water.

I paddled my old Perception Swifty, Dianne paddled her 12 foot Old Town Vapor and Yakker had his newly purchased Dagger Edisto. Despite paddling a somewhat tippy 15 foot touring kayak, Yakker admirably managed the few obstacles the river threw at us. Dianne's Vapor performed well and my old Swifty just about has this river memorized. We stopped on a gravel bar for a brief snack and again at Todd Public Access for a bathroom break. Unlikely the other public access points on our trip, Todd Public Access is on the East side of the river.

After we made it to the take-out at the Highway 62 Bridge, we were all eager to find some grub. However, my priority was to rummage through the outfitters stores for some kayaking t-shirts. I grabbed some decent canoeing shirts from the stores at Diamondhead Resort and War Eagle Resort, but alas...no kayaking shirts. Thankfully, right next to War Eagle's outfitter store we found Fatty's BBQ!

I was hungy enough to eat the butt out of a skunk by the time the paddling and shopping was concluded. The smoke rising from Fatty's was a sight for sore eyes and sunburned ears. We enjoyed Pulled Pork sandwiches and Potato Salad Alfresco from Fatty's BBQ. The shady seats and Doors music set the mood for basking in the afterglow of a perfect day of paddling. The pulled pork was delicious.

Those of you who went to work on Friday, truly have my pity.

Illinois River Watershed Appreciation Day June 6, 2009 from 2 to 7 p.m. Saturday at Lake Fayetteville.

Family Fun on Flatwater

We stayed close to home this Memorial Day Weekend, but still managed to squeeze in a little bit of paddling between the Oklahoma monsoons.

Saturday, we linked up with a couple friends and paddled around the marina at Lake Eufaula. We had to wait until fairly late in the afternoon for the rain to stop, but eventually it did stop. Eufaula was bustling with boats and every variety of wake sport enthusiast. I enjoyed the easy launch from the boat ramp and getting to check out Greg's new Dagger Edisto kayak.

After sleeping in on Sunday, we decided to do some family style paddling in Henryetta, Oklahoma. Jim Hall Lake is the reservoir lake just southeast of Henryetta. It was not crowded with campers, like the Lake Eufaula marina area we visited yesterday. We saw only a few groups of tent campers and two other boats on the lake. Once again, we successfully dodged the rain showers. Dianne was paddling her new Vapor 12 kayak, we put Dylan in my old Perception Swifty and I paddled the Heritage Angler kayak.

I always enjoy taking pictures of Dianne and Dylan paddling around in the sunset. Now that we have three kayaks, I hope we can spend more time together on the water this summer. Jim Hall Lake is an easy-to-find spot for picnics, flatwater paddling, fishing and sunset chasing. We will surely be back.

Did You Know Southern Kansas Has an Elk River?

A strong cycle of Spring rains has water levels up all over Oklahoma and the rest of the Ozarks. Just about every river offering whitewater fun is running fast now. Extreme whitewater enthusiasts are hitting spots like the Tulsa Wave, The Mulberry River and The Kiamichi River. Flatwater paddlers are enjoying higher lake levels providing access to narrow backwater creeks leading into the local reserviors.

Kayak Demo Day

Shopping for a new kayak around Tulsa? Visit the Kayak and Canoe Demonstration at Bass Pro Shops in Broken Arrow, OK May 23, 2009 - May 30, 2009. They have a couple of deals on twelve foot fishing kayaks that look attractive to me.

I am planning on making a couple road trip this summer. Floating the Ouachita River and the Caddo River. However, for my next trip, I am thinking about heading North to Kansas. Has anyone ever paddled the Elk River in Kansas? Leave us a comment!

According to my new copy of Paddling Kansas, the Elk River above Elk City Lake is a very scenic 9.2 miles of Class I-II water. At a little over 2 and a half hours from home, that is well within Day trip striking range. I've paddled the Elk River in Missouri a few times, so it will be interesting to compare them.

Kayaking Events in the Area

Two Together, Two Apart
Originally uploaded by FreeWine

Kayaking season in Oklahoma has kicked off with some much needed rain, but as usual the rains are landing on the weekends and the truly outstanding weather is saving itself for midweek. Thankfully, the Spring time change means I have time to slip down to my local lake for some sunset chasing after work.

I never cease to be fascinated by the sunsets Dripping Springs Lake is blessed with. What Oklahoma lacks in horizon features for photographers, it more than makes up for with interesting weather. How did I manage to spend my whole life here and never notice this vibrant fountain of color in my own background?

Besides sunset chasing and trying to find homes for the new puppies at our house, I have been thinking about building my own kayak. There are a number of fine books available on building kayaks and canoes from wood, fabric, fiberglass or kevlar.

I think I may buy a kit for building a cedar strip kayak. They are light-weight boats built for speed and beauty. The boat construction technique used allows you to build almost any kind of boat using commonly available and inexpensive tools.

Folks planning on buying a kayak rather than building one should consider a trip to OKC this May. The annual OKC Kayak Expo will be at Hobie Point on Oklahoma City's Lake Hefner on Wednesday evening May 6, 2009 from 6pm to 9pm. There are usually upwards of 30-40 boats out there for this free event and it's a great way to get the feel of different types of kayaks and canoes, as well as a great introduction to kayaking in general.

If you already have kayak, you can volunteer to paddle in the Olympics...sort of. The Oklahoma City Boathouse Foundation is hosting an international Triathlon May 16 & 17. They need Oklahoma kayakers to help with the swim portion of the race. It will be on the Oklahoma River at the Chesapeake Boathouse. They are needing people who have some experience in a kayak, who would be able to keep an eye on the swimmers, and in the case they need assistance provide them with a floatation device. It's going to be a unique opportunity to see some of the best athletes in the world up close. For more information about the race here's the web site: http://www.boathousetriathlon.org/

Also, the 2009 Teva Mountain Games are happening June 4 – 7, 2009 in Vail, Colorado. Expect some extreme whitewater action at that event.

Keep Paddling, Y'all!

We Got Water, Now Get a Kayak

Rivers all over the area are running fast and high. Good news, if you are one of the unlucky folks like myself who are NOT going to be paddling the Buffalo River this weekend with the local flatwater paddling group. Did that sound bitter? Seriously, this is the primo time of year to paddle the Buffalo National River. Get there while the water is fast and the redbuds are in bloom, don't wait for summer.

The North Canadian River, the Illinois River, Deep Fork, just about every river in my area is benefiting from the surprise snowfall last weekend. So get out there and paddle something quick before it all flows away! Don't have your kayak yet? There is a kayak demo day in Dallas this month and Dave Lindo at OKC Kayak has a ready supply of great kayaks you can try out. My favorite kayak features are: ten or twelve foot length, foot pegs, comfy seat, deck webbing, and capacity of at least 200lbs.

Dallas REI Store Paddle Demo Day will be held April 11, 2009 at White Rock Lake.
Try out the latest canoes, kayaks and accessories for free! Time: 11 am - 3 pm. Test boats to see how they handle and get paddling tips from REI staff and vendors at free paddling clinics. Take home a coupon for 15% off a boat.

Of course, if you are not ready to buy a kayak yet, you can always rent a kayak instead. Just get out there and paddle some sunsets.

Ancient Forest Near Tulsa Area Lake

This may be the year I address the flood of email requests I get for Tulsa area paddling spots. Other than a brief paddling trip to Lake Bixhoma, Dianne and I haven't tried much kayaking near Tulsa. Normally, we avoid paddling near metro areas, as the required permits and regulations can be a pain to chase down.

However, I recently learned that Sand Springs, Oklahoma is home to Keystone Lake and the eastern shoreline of Lake Keystone is home to the Keystone Ancient Forest. I personally did not know that Oklahoma offered hiking through a 1,300-acre old-growth forest.

Now that I know about the old-growth forest...I would like to see it for myself. The confluence of the Arkansas and Cimarron Rivers is said to be visible from the high ground on the nature preserve...but you can't go there alone. To protect the park, hikes through the Keystone Ancient Forest are only allowed for groups of ten or more.

Since the lake looks like a good one for paddling, I've decided to move Keystone Lake up to the top of my Priority Paddling List. If only there were some group of local kayakers that I could team up with, maybe we could get a reservation to visit the Keystone Ancient Forest and paddle the lake on the same day.

Anyone out there ever checked out the old-growth forest on Keystone Lake? Can you paddle to it?

Texas Water Adventures in May and June

Get Ready for Canoe Racing Season

The Texas Water Safari (June 13-17, 2009) is a long, hot, tough, nonstop, marathon canoe racing adventure for teams. The course traverses 260 miles of challenging rivers and bays! Teams may not receive any assistance of any kind except verbal, so you must pack in everything you will need. You must be prepared to travel day and night, nonstop to be competitive, but teams who occasionally stop for sleep have been able to reach mandatory checkpoint cutoff times and cross the finish line by the 100 hour deadline.

Sound too tough? I agree! There is no way I would attempt to endure the Texas Water Safari without trying my team's luck at the preliminary race, Texas Water Marathon, first. The season is cooler, the water levels are likely to be higher and the distance is much shorter. If you do plan to paddle the Safari, wear your PFD. There is a new PFD rule this year, so watch yourself, know your rescue techniques and wear a lifejacket.

Texas River Marathon at 9am on Saturday May 2, 2009

The Texas River Marathon is a 45-mile race from Cuero Highway 236 to Victoria City Park. This is the preliminary race of the Texas Water Safari. Location: Cuero, Tx - Hwy 236 (Under Bridge) Fee: $25/person if registered by April 24, 2009 or $35/person race day registration. http://www.texaswatersafari.org/

More paddling in Texas

Preparing for Spring Paddling in the Ozarks

With today's low wind and high temps, it is clearly and excellent day for winter kayaking in Oklahoma. Naturally, you can't get weather like this on the weekend. I would take a sick day to go paddling on a day like this, but wouldn't you know it...I'm already sick. I picked up a head cold somewhere, so I will be spending this wonderful 70 degree February day at home sneezing like crazy. More warm weather is currently on tap for tomorrow, but the wind speeds and rain chances are higher as well. Since I am likely to be sick all week, I will miss this fine weather, hopefully you will be more lucky.

If you do get out for some paddling, do me a favor and wear a PFD, the water is still quite cold.

Do You Facebook?

I've been trying to learn the ropes on FaceBook this week. With Spring kayaking season just aroung the corner and the Tulsa job market tightening, I thought that this would be a great time to expand my social network. I've already managed to form ties with a couple of my friends from the Oklahoma Flatwater Paddlers, a large amount of my wife's family and several friends from High School. I haven't figured out all of the applications on FB yet, but I cannot help but be impressed with its ability to locate old buddies that I have not spoken to in years. If you are a local paddler in the Tulsa area and you find yourself on Facebook, send a friend request for Thomas Jones in Okmulgee, OK. Maybe we can go paddling sometime soon.

I hope to be hale and hearty again in time to make a trip to OKC for the Paddlesports and Outdoor Gear Swap at OKC Kayak March 6th and 7th. I recently aquired some neoprene waders, that would be excellent for Winter kayaking, but they are one size too small for my comfort. I also have some kayaking DVD's I could part with.

The Buffalo River & The Kings River

Float trip outfitters throughout the Ozarks have begun inspecting their rivers in preparation for the Spring paddling season. The early February ice storms have created some serious timber issues this year for both paddlers and outfitters on the Buffalo River and the Kings River in nearby Arkansas.

The last I heard, the popular Ponca-to-Kyle's-Landing Buffalo River float isn't possible because Kyle's Landing Access is closed. The nearest take-out to Ponca is the Erbie access 15 miles downstream. The Steel Creek access, just below Ponca, Arkansas is also closed. To check the status of the Buffalo National River access points, visit the Buffalo River park's Web site, www.nps.gov/buff or call park headquarters at (870) 365-2700.

Parched Oklahoma Finally Gets Some Rain and Too Much Wind

North Canadian River
Originally uploaded by FreeWine

Water levels are up in many area lakes and rivers such as the Illinois River, the Mulberry River, the North Canadian River, The Buffalo, The Kiamichi River and even old muddy Deep Fork. Sadly, the winds were deadly, our prayers will be with the victims in tornado struck Lone Grove and Edmond, Oklahoma.

Adding more excitement in my area is: powerline tree trimming by helicopter! You should see the high flying helicopter horror show happening right outside my window today. About half a dozen whirling blades dangling from a very low hanging chopper. Without a doubt...today is a scary day to be a squirrel!

I got my kayak out this weekend and paddled for a couple hours on the North Canadian River, but the low water levels at the time made it more like plowing than paddling. At least it was a warm and fairly sunny day.

OU Sooners Gifts

January Sunsets on the Deep Fork River

I hope many of you got out on the local lakes and rivers for some winter paddling during the recent warm spell. It is snowing at my house today, but I'm willing to bet there are going to be a few more 60+ degree days before Spring arrives. Taking advantage of Oklahoma's occasionally warm winter days are one of the best advantages that come from buying a kayak or living near an outfitter.

I recently got out on the Deep Fork River for paddling with my friend Yakker, from Checotah. He tried his luck at kayak fishing, while I tried to grab some pictures. We launched from the wonderfully handy Deep Fork River boat ramp on at the bridges on Highway 266 between Dewar and Grayson. The water is deeper than most parts of the river, so you can paddle this portion of the river in the dryest of seasons. The high muddy banks provide good protection from the winter winds. There was little to no current running, we could sure use some rain around here. I brought paddling gloves, and an extra set of dry clothes just in case the weather changed unexpectedly.

The scenery may look lame early in the day on Deep Fork, but as you near sundown the sunken trees start to take on a surreal look. Don't leave your digital camera at home, winter provides some stunning sunsets that truly light up the Deep Fork River. Remeber to prepare for the water and the weather...cold kills and camera film gets brittle when the temps fall. That being said, flatwater paddling on Oklahoma lakes and low current rivers can really spice up your winter.

Got a local lake you like to savor the sunset on? Drop us a comment!

Cold Season Kayaking is Common in Oklahoma

My son Dylan and I slipped out last week for a few hours of sunset paddling. It was his first time paddling in the winter, so I hooked him up with some paddling gloves and a spray skirt. Okmulgee Lake was calm and beautiful from our warm and bright 3:30pm launch until our chilly 6pm return. Despite the unseasonably warm 72 degree weather, we saw more Osprey than fishermen!

This Saturday's forecast calls for more 70 degree temps and you know what that means...more winter kayaking! Since there are also likely to be gusty winds, river kayaking is preferable to lake kayaking.

Some of the Oklahoma Flatwater Paddlers are planning on doing some kayaking around OKC.

Dianne and I have been discussing kayaking on the Deep Fork River just off Highway 266 between Dewar and Grayson, Oklahoma. I don't expect any current, but this part of the Deep Fork River is deep enough to maintain a decent level for kayaking even during dry seasons. This spot also offers great parking and easy access to the water via boat ramp!

I hope all of my paddling friends out there got some cool kayaking gear for Christmas. I got a black kayaking t-shirt and some neoprene cold water paddling pants, shirt and even kayaking socks! Having the right gear certainly makes winter paddling more fun.

I'm trying to talk Dianne into a trip to Caddo Lake in February for some Texas paddling. I foolishly choose Valentines Day for our wedding, so now I can rarely get reservations to take her out to celebrate it. I figure Texas is likely to be a bit warmer in February and if not... we can always go bowling!

Dianne thinks we should probably stay closer to home in Tulsa or OKC, just in case the weather gets icy. Planning winter road trips can be risky if you have to make reservations. Got any tips?